Another option for the triangulation would be to have a removable section, have the rearmost strut as a bolt-in item for example.
The position of the Axle looks good as it is, having the bends made as removable sections would be my first choice.
They'll add little to the overall strength/rigidity of the set-up as they are, given that the clamps themselves are so 'beefy'.
What are you thinking for seats and their mountings?
You may be able to tie that in with the general strengthening you're after.
1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
good pointer liking it, seat wise i'm going to have a single seat just for me i can kinda see where you are coming from, but still can't get to terms of cutting the rear bends as in of how i would do from a fabricator side of thingsDoc. wrote:Another option for the triangulation would be to have a removable section, have the rearmost strut as a bolt-in item for example.
The position of the Axle looks good as it is, having the bends made as removable sections would be my first choice.
They'll add little to the overall strength/rigidity of the set-up as they are, given that the clamps themselves are so 'beefy'.
What are you thinking for seats and their mountings?
You may be able to tie that in with the general strengthening you're after.
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1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
What I'm thinking is this; Weld a 1/2" x 1/8" strip of steel between each bend and the removable rear section of the Clamp Blocks.
Next, using a thin cutting disc in an Angle-Grinder, cut through the bend sections top and bottom, as close to the clamp blocks as possible, then remove the Clamp Blocks (with the strips and bends now permanently attached).
Make eight steel discs just slightly smaller than the Tube diameter, and weld them to the Tubes ends (or use penny washers).
Clean up the welds.
Do it neatly/acurately enough and it shouldn't be noticeable, not without looking really closely.
Next, using a thin cutting disc in an Angle-Grinder, cut through the bend sections top and bottom, as close to the clamp blocks as possible, then remove the Clamp Blocks (with the strips and bends now permanently attached).
Make eight steel discs just slightly smaller than the Tube diameter, and weld them to the Tubes ends (or use penny washers).
Clean up the welds.
Do it neatly/acurately enough and it shouldn't be noticeable, not without looking really closely.
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
Got the trike on the floor, now I can see what it looks like grounded.
Still loads to do.
Still loads to do.
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
That's looking right nice is that
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
Only an opinion here, could do with being a foot shorter. Cut that prop down to about 6" overall!! :-)
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
In agrement with v8t adam could do with being shorter how long is it
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
It's just over 3m overall, the propshaft is quite long but, if I had the axle more towards the engine, the trike didn't look to proportion in my eyes. But I'm like it the way it is. I know where you are coming from its f##king long.
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Re: 1300 cross flow drag/chopper trike
Adam are those the bars yum using ? Looks like your be leaning forward is it your preferd rideing poison me I like to sit back