rip the V8 out and fit a 300Tdi lump and box, then rip the air bags off and fit springs, and the sunroof leaking...sorry its a landy - they ALL do it!!
due to the engine probs i suggest someone in the past has killed it big time by using it on short trips (v8's hate this)
Is the LPG a single point or multi point? as im sure with the lekktrikkery on the series 2 disco's multi has to be the way to go , Very expensive tho..
I'd go with the general opinion that the LPG and Efi has to go and fit SU's....then bung it on flea bay pronto!
as an aside...crap lpg running is usually vapouriser...and if timings been altered to try and improve lpg running then thats the petrol problem..
When you do buy summat else - DIESEL...but watch out for discoveries as they rot..BADLY!! Shoguns..2.5 will run on bio diesel but pops headgaskets , 2.8 wont run on bio and has a cam chain..BUT pump seals go , part is about £2 but a strip down of the pump aint cheap!!
P38 Range rovers are a good buy IF you get a good one..stay away from the 4.6, the 4.0 is the strongest and safer engine , the 6 pot beemer diesel is a great engine but RR ruined it by adding it to the P38's electrics!!
Old series landy is the way to go, but make sure its got a Tdi engine, parabolic springs, and make sure you can cope with draughts, leaks, and steering that would make a super tanker look agile..
Hope you get summat sorted mate.....nothing worse than getting a dog of a car!!
Lev's LPG problems.
the lpg is on a fangled multipoint system...two sets of everything....
i havnt looked to see if theres any icing...
but icing up sounds possible...
and i dont know where the lpg filters are ....
i'll post some piccies later.
the system is fully automatic, will fire on petrol, run until warm then switch over to lpg with a bump...
tbh, when its running well, i LOVE IT!!
that v8 power and sound with massive chunky insar turbo mud terrain tyres...:drool:
Lev
i havnt looked to see if theres any icing...
but icing up sounds possible...
and i dont know where the lpg filters are ....
i'll post some piccies later.
the system is fully automatic, will fire on petrol, run until warm then switch over to lpg with a bump...
tbh, when its running well, i LOVE IT!!
that v8 power and sound with massive chunky insar turbo mud terrain tyres...:drool:
Lev
And i've owned seven tdi discos, two pajeros, one trooper (nice!), two fronteras, three freelanders....
yeah, i live in the country....
had a defender 90 on loan breifly...piece of crap and my leg got blistered against the handbrake lever...but fun!
i'll get the v8 fixed as soon as work picks up...ive sealed the sunroofs, everything else has been done, just this poxy lpg fault!
the timing is fixed coilpacks, no dizzy...cant adjust it without computers
not so easy to bung it on ebay as i had it signwritten for work and that isnt cheap!
would like to give it a chance...cos it looks the dogs'and the engine sound gives me a boner!!
Lev
yeah, i live in the country....
had a defender 90 on loan breifly...piece of crap and my leg got blistered against the handbrake lever...but fun!
i'll get the v8 fixed as soon as work picks up...ive sealed the sunroofs, everything else has been done, just this poxy lpg fault!
the timing is fixed coilpacks, no dizzy...cant adjust it without computers
not so easy to bung it on ebay as i had it signwritten for work and that isnt cheap!
would like to give it a chance...cos it looks the dogs'and the engine sound gives me a boner!!
Lev
- VmaxRik
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God knows what most of this stuff means, but this is what i've nicked off the net.
As to cutting out, 3 miles could be about how long it takes for the reducer to freeze up if the engine bay were nice and warm. How is the reducer water supply plumbed ? On vehicles with constant flow heaters, I prefer to plumb the reducer in series with the heater as it gives a more positive flow. When plumbed in parallel, there is a tendency for air to collect in the reducer and block the water flow - and since the heater is a nice low-resistance route for the water, there is no pressure to force the air out. Applying a few revs and pinching a heater hose (after the reducer tee-offs) may clear the air.
Of course, the way to diagnose if this is the issue is ... run it till it dies and see if the reducer is cold.
Clean the filter in the LPG vapouriser (regulator), clean the stepper motor plunger,
The other thing that no-one has mentioned is the actual setting up of the vapouriser and power valve -it could be that these are just out of adjustment and need resetting whilst attached to an exhaust gas analyser. The other thing that can happen is the filter in the LPG line can become blocked and therefore restrict the gas supply, causing a lean mixture, causing a backfire.
Have you got underslung tanks? If so, I would be tempted to look at that end of the system for a wire off or corroded connection.
Oh, and have a read of this lot.
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...rules_pt1.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...rules_pt2.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...open-loop.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...osed-loop.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/service.html
Enjoy....
.
As to cutting out, 3 miles could be about how long it takes for the reducer to freeze up if the engine bay were nice and warm. How is the reducer water supply plumbed ? On vehicles with constant flow heaters, I prefer to plumb the reducer in series with the heater as it gives a more positive flow. When plumbed in parallel, there is a tendency for air to collect in the reducer and block the water flow - and since the heater is a nice low-resistance route for the water, there is no pressure to force the air out. Applying a few revs and pinching a heater hose (after the reducer tee-offs) may clear the air.
Of course, the way to diagnose if this is the issue is ... run it till it dies and see if the reducer is cold.
Clean the filter in the LPG vapouriser (regulator), clean the stepper motor plunger,
The other thing that no-one has mentioned is the actual setting up of the vapouriser and power valve -it could be that these are just out of adjustment and need resetting whilst attached to an exhaust gas analyser. The other thing that can happen is the filter in the LPG line can become blocked and therefore restrict the gas supply, causing a lean mixture, causing a backfire.
Have you got underslung tanks? If so, I would be tempted to look at that end of the system for a wire off or corroded connection.
Oh, and have a read of this lot.
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...rules_pt1.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...rules_pt2.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...open-loop.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/fi...osed-loop.html
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/service.html
Enjoy....
.
This nation wasn't given to our forefathers, it was wrought over a 1000 years of bloody war and the efforts of those who came before.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
- 1130cc
- Twiddler of Forum Buttons and Levers.
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I have a good link to the landywiki for tuning lpg on my blog - http://www.easy-it.co.uk/blog/?p=311
Tells you how to do it without a O2 analyser
Tells you how to do it without a O2 analyser
Bikers know why dogs stick their head out of car windows.
Many thanks guys!!
after reading the first part odf riks post, i recognised my problem straight away!!!
its doing exactly what is described!
AND....Im losing water from a T piece right by the offside lpg canister thingie...could be as described...airlocking or even the water supposed to be heating the lpg vaporiser freezing up in the pipe..!
ALSO...Ive noticed an lpg stink under the bonnet after problems...it tells me exactly why this ids happening...frozen lpg sat in pipes defrosting and seeping up through air filter box..!
ive checked all my hoses with gas detector spray to no avail!!
im going to be reading the posts thoroughly when im not knackered!
after reading the first part odf riks post, i recognised my problem straight away!!!
its doing exactly what is described!
AND....Im losing water from a T piece right by the offside lpg canister thingie...could be as described...airlocking or even the water supposed to be heating the lpg vaporiser freezing up in the pipe..!
ALSO...Ive noticed an lpg stink under the bonnet after problems...it tells me exactly why this ids happening...frozen lpg sat in pipes defrosting and seeping up through air filter box..!
ive checked all my hoses with gas detector spray to no avail!!
im going to be reading the posts thoroughly when im not knackered!
- VmaxRik
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Soz about the links...they were working fine yesterday, never mind it still directs you to the LPG forum though, or click on the bits on the left hand side....The "big freeze" might be of some interest to you.
BAH....I hate bloody puters
.
BAH....I hate bloody puters
.
This nation wasn't given to our forefathers, it was wrought over a 1000 years of bloody war and the efforts of those who came before.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
Let it not be us who bears the sin, of giving it away to the enemy within.
- Ghoulie
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well i can only speak as i find - but run my v8 Jeep now for 127,500 miles (covered total mileage 165,000) on lpg - tartarini system fitted by NW Autogas 10 years ago and apart from a stuck solenoid valve not opening lpg inlet - fixed by NW Autogas for £25 - had no problems at all
Nil carborundum illegitamae
Another late one?
So now Lev our man who loves long hours is going to disappear into the workshop and come out many hours later winning again by the sound of things.....Hope so , you deserve a bit of luck!!!!levvin wrote:eh? nothing wrong with your linkies Rik!
most helpful and no mistake!!
will be reading in full and attempting to repair and modify the heater pipe run as described soon!
Lev:naughty:
Zoe must love you, missing in action so often.