This is a sleeve of 33mm dia that is roll pinned to the shaft from the bike it is splined inside but held with roll pin the distance from the end of this to the diff flange is 140mm
My original drive shaft is somewhere between Havant and the new Forrest
Hi Tom, sorry for the late reply, playing with Tina's trike build. I've taken a pic of my converted driveshaft & as you can see, it has the original diff flange & sliding shaft from a Reliant Robin grafted onto my bike driveshaft. The engineering firm that did it are propshaft specialists & certainly didn't have any problems doing it or re-balancing the shaft afterwards. Cost me £65 for the conversion with parts supplied by me. I'm not sure what you have on the end of your drive shaft in your pic, but it looks odd to me. Might be a better idea to get a Reliant propshaft & use the parts & graft them onto your bike driveshaft like i did. Just a thought. Let us know how you get on. Cheers, Bob.
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Some mornings it's just not worth chewing through the restraints!
firebob22 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 16, 2020 1:29 pm
Hi Tom, sorry for the late reply, playing with Tina's trike build. I've taken a pic of my converted driveshaft & as you can see, it has the original diff flange & sliding shaft from a Reliant Robin grafted onto my bike driveshaft. The engineering firm that did it are propshaft specialists & certainly didn't have any problems doing it or re-balancing the shaft afterwards. Cost me £65 for the conversion with parts supplied by me. I'm not sure what you have on the end of your drive shaft in your pic, but it looks odd to me. Might be a better idea to get a Reliant propshaft & use the parts & graft them onto your bike driveshaft like i did. Just a thought. Let us know how you get on. Cheers, Bob.
Thanks for the pic So that's using the sliding spline end of the reliant propshaft how much movement is needed on the spline
The shaft coming out of my engine is splined inside the sleeve you can see in my pic but is held in a fixed position by the roll pin yellow in the pic my thought is if the spline movement is minimal when the suspension moves could I get away with the other end of a propshaft and fit my sleeve into it
Like you say Tom, you don't need much sliding movement, I asked for 15mm at the diff end & the bike shaft is splined & also allowed to slide at the engine end (Yamaha design) so i've got about another 10mm there. So 25mm overall & it's plenty for the amount of movement the swingarm takes. Hope this helps.
Some mornings it's just not worth chewing through the restraints!
cheers bob its just me thinking and trying to come up with the simple solution i can see the need for the movement of the spline shaft when the axle can move as it takes up torque because its mounted on springs also the car engine can move on its mounts but with my axle being unable to twist the only movement in a fixed arc with the swing arm am i making any sense or should i just find a complete propshaft and get on with it
hows tina getting on with her gear change practice thanks for all you have done tom&jackie
Unless the engine end UJ is exactly in line with the Swingarm pivot you'll get some differential movement between the two hence the need for a splined sliding coupling. The Reliant car axle was only supposed to travel up and down but they included the slip joint
Well Tom, i think i'd go with a Reliant propshaft cos it's got all the bits you need & will save you time & heartache should the worst happen! At least you can replace Reliant parts. The place i got mine from is still advertising on fleabay & it was £50 plus post. Tina's getting on well & says hi, bit too cold now for any more practice, so i'm just getting her trike finished. Good luck mate & keep in touch. Bob.
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This is the section of propshaft that I am using I separated it from the prop tube and turned it down to fit the sleeve on the end of the Honda shaft then welded it together
Blatantly copied off yours bob thanks for the pic keep well
